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Installation Guide



Please follow instructions carefully

Mouldings should be stored in a cool, dry area before installation. Lancrest Crown Molding should be cut for length such that pieces fit tightly. Allow about 1/16” extra length per section and spring cornice pieces into place.

Layout where crown molding installation will be done by preferably marking the location of any studs or joists on the molding. Install all corner blocks first. Ideally you will want to nail/screw through molding into wall and ceiling at each end and in the middle of each length. (For a total of 6 nails/screws per 8' piece). Predrilling is not necessary.

Apply PL premium adhesive along the mating surfaces where the molding will meet the ceiling and wall (use sparingly, small dots not a long bead, gives you more grab and less mess, a small amount goes a long way) . Apply the molding to the wall/ceiling and "shimmy" against wall and ceiling to assure the adhesive is contacting surfaces. As stated above, countersink the nails/screws through molding into wall/ceiling.

Apply PL premium adhesive to the end joint of the installed molding prior to installing the next piece. Adhesive is only required on one side of the joint and only a very small amount is necessary. When installing next piece, insure the joint surfaces are making good contact by "shimmying" molding against installed piece. Install new piece against the neighboring piece as tightly as possible. Any adhesive which squeezes out of the joint can be wiped off or cut/sanded after cure. Use the same steps for both butt and miter joints. Continue with the above steps around the room.

There might be significant gaps between the molding and wall/ceiling or the corner blocks which should be filled with a paintable latex caulk, (Lightning Brand recommended) wiped smooth and allowed to cure. Any joints and any screw/nailholes can be filled with drywall compound. Once dry, patched areas can be sanded with a fine grit paper. Repeat filling and sanding process if necessary. Prime any patched areas, preferably with an oil based primer. Allow primer to dry.

Then, wipe the molding down with a damp cloth and allow to dry. A lot of dust typically exists in a building/remodeling environment, make sure the product is free from any dirt, dust or debris before painting.


How does urethane compare to wood?

Lancrest polyurethane mouldings have many advantages over wood mouldings. To obtain the same depth and definition, several separate pieces of wood would be required. Plus with our pricing it typically runs about 1/4 the price per ft.

When installing polyurethane mouldings, treat them just as if they were wood. Pieces can be cut, drilled, nailed, and screwed just like wood. Nails and screws do not require pre-drilled holes. We recommend the use of trim head drywall screws as fasteners. They are self countersinking and leave a hole that is easy to fill.

How does urethane compare to plaster?

Urethane molding is much lighter and much easier to install than plaster. Urethanes are much more resilient and less fragile than plaster. No special anchoring or support is required. They may also be used outside without any additional preparation or additional finishing required. They are impervious to pest and moisture infiltration.

Can your products be used outside?

Polyurethane items can absolutely be used outside. However, plaster items can not. Plaster is water based and it will eventually break down and dissolve.

Are your products "finish ready"?

All our products are primed with a matte white base coat and can be finished (or faux finished) with any quality latex or oil based product. (Do not use lacquer based products.)